Assig-nob



Dec; 25, 1928, 11,696,438

J. KIEWICZ SEWING MACHINE Filed Aug. 19. 1922 8 Sheets-Sheet 2 Fig.2..

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Dec. 25, 1928. 1,696,438 7 J. KIEWICZ sEwIfie MACHINE Filed Aug. 19.1922 8 Sheets- Sheet 3 Fig.3.

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John Kiewicg MMJIW SEWING M INE FilBd 9' 7' InVenTOT: zkJohn Kie icg b)WW1? Anya bec.,25, 192s.

J. KlEWlCZ SEWING MACHINE Filed Aug. 19. 1922 8 Sheets-Sheet 6 Fig. 10.

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sIurI of overlying sfiiches W Dec- 25 Y J. KIEWICZ SEWING MACHINE 7Filed Aug. 19. 1922 8 Sheets-Sheet '1 Fig.13.

end of ufiderying smches \nvenTo'r. I John Kievvicg Dec. 25, 1928.3,696,438

J. KIEWICZ SEWING MACHINE Filed Aug. 19. 1922 8 Sheets-Sheet 8 lnvenTor.

John Kiewicg bYMW IW Aflyschines of this type,

Patented .Eec. 25 i928.

tJNETED JCHN KIEWICZ, F BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIG'NOR Ti) THE BEEGEBUTTON HOLE MACHINE COMPANY, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, A CORFORATION OFMAINE.

SERVING MACHINE.

Application filed August 19, 1922. Serial No. 583,010.

This invention relates to sewing machines of that type which are usedfor inserting a line of reinforcing stitches to stay or reinforce fabricat any given point, such for instance as at the ends of buttonholes oracross the ends of pocket openings in garments. Sewing machines of thistype are commonly referred to in the trade as tackers and they arefrequently constructed so that the reinforcing stitches inserted at eachoperation comprise a group of stitches side by side, and which may beconveniently referred to as the underlying stitches, and a second groupof stitches which overlie the stitches of the first group and whichextend transversely thereof. For convenience the stitches of the secondgroup may be referred to as the overlying stitches.

These sewing machines are frequently constructed so as to permit ofvarying the length of the underlying stitches to produce a longer orshorter reinforcement as circumstances require.

One of the important objects of my pesent invention is to provide asewing machine of this type which is constructed so that the number ofthe overlying stitches may be varied for any given length of underlyingstitches thereby providing for varying the spacing of said overlyingstitches.

Another object of the invention is to provide a sewing machine of thistype in which the number of the over-lying stitches may be variedproportionately to the va 'iation in the length of the underlyingstitches, so that a uniform spacing of the overlying stitches may besecured regardless of the length of the underlying stitches. By thismeans a. tack or reinforcement of uniform appearance but varying inlength may be produced.

Still another object of the invention is to provide a machine of thistype by which the number of the overlying stitches can be varied withoutvarying the length of the underlying stitches thus providing for placingthe overlying'stitches nearer to or further from each other depending onthe character of the reinforcement it is desired to make.

Other objects of the invent-ion. are to provide various improvements insewing maall as will be more fully hereinafter set forth.

In order to give an understanding of my invention, I have illustrated inthe drawings a selected embodiment thereof which will now be describedafter which the novel features will he pointed out in the appendedclaims.

In the drawings Fig. 1, is a side view of a sewing machine embodying myinvention.

Fig. 2 is top plan view with the overhanging arm broken away.

Fig. 3 is an under side view.

Figs. 4 and 5 are sectional views on substantially the line 4l, Fig. 3,showing the parts in different positions.

Fig. 6 is a sectional view on the line 6-6,

Fig. 7 is a detail view of the feeding mecha nism for feeding the workduring the formation of the overlying stitches.

Fig. 8 is a view of the feed pawl.

F 9'is a sectional view through the feed pawl.

Fig. 10 is a section on the line 1010, Fig. 3.

Fig. 11 is a detail of the cam for giving movement to the work duringthe formation of the underlying stitches.

Fig. 12 is a detail of the cam for giving vibrating movement to the workduring the formation of the overlying stitches.

Fig. 13 is a diagrammatic view showing the character of the sewingoperation performed by the machine.

Figure 1 1 is a view of some of the parts by which the work holder ismoved during the formation of the underlying stitches.

Fig. 15 is a view similar to Fig. 14, but showing the feed cam adjustedfor the formation of the underlying stitches.

Fig. 16 is a fragmentary perspective view showing the operation of theratchet for maintaining the machine in operation.

Fig. 17 is a view of the lever 74 and the ratchet for holding it.

Fig. 18 is a detailed view of the shown in Fig. 16.

Fig. 19 is a view similar to Fig. 13', but showing a different form ofreinforcement.

Fig. 20 is a view similar to Fig. 11, showing the cam adapted to makethe reinforcement illustrated inFig. 19.

Before describing the machine it will perhaps be helpful to referbriefly to the character of the stitch which is made by the ma chine.This is shown in Fig. 13 and it comprises a group of long stitches 1,placed side by side and a second group of cross stitches 2 which overliethe stitches 1 and extend transversely thereof. The stitches 1 mayconparts veniently be referred to as the underlying stitches and thestitches 2 may coin eniently be referred to as the overlying stitches. Asewing machine the type herein illustrated is constructed to form at oneoperation the group of underlying stitches 1 and tc h of overlyingstitches 2, said macl arranged to automatically come to rest when thestitches 2 have been completed.

The sewing machine herein shown is formed with a base frame 3 on whichthe work is supported and which has risire; therefrom the usualoverhanging m =4: m which rec iprocates a needle bar 5 carrying theneedle 6. The sewing machine a twothread sewing machine and the underthread is carried by a bobbin and is concatenated with the upper threadby means of a h ook or shuttle indicated 'enerallv at which may beeither of the rotary or scillatory type all as usual in sewing nmchines.

The needle bar and the hook are actuated from a driving shaft 8. Saidshaft is shown as having an eccentric 9 thereon which is connectedthrough an arm 10 to an oscillating lever 11 that in turn is connectedat its outer end to the needle bar. The hook *4" is given its movementthrough a rocking member 12 that is connected by link 13 to an eccentricor cam on the shaft 8. These parts may have any suitable constructionand form no part of the present invention.

The work to in which the tack or stay is to be formed is held in a wori;clamp comprising two clamping jaws 14 and 15. The under jaws 14: areformed on the ends of arms 16 which carry posts 17 and the upper jawsare also formed on the ends of arms 18, which are pivotally mounted onthe posts as shown at 19. The jaws are yieldin 'ly held in clampingengagement with the work through the medium of a spring 20, which issituated between the ends of the arms 16 and 18.

The needle 6 reciprocates in a fixed position and the stitches areformed by a vibrating movement of the work clamp. The clamping jaws 1 'sand 15 are given a transverse vibrating movement to form the undcrlyingstitches 1 and are given a fore-and-aft movement as well as a slowtransverse feeding movement to form the overlying stitches 2.

I have stated above that one of the features of the present inventionrelates to a construction by which the number of the overlying stitches2 can be varied either n'oportionatcly to or independent of the lengthof the underlying stitches.

The means for giving the vibrating movev ment to the work holder duringthe formation of the underlying stitches 1, comprises a rotary cam 21,having a plurality of high. portions 22, and a plurality of low port is23, said cam acting against a roll 24L carried on a lever 25 pivoted tothe machine frame at 26. This lever has a thrust rod 2'? connectorthereto wnich is slidable through and is guided by a stud 28 and whichbears against an arm 29 of an elbow lever pivoted to the 70 frame at 30.The other arm 31 of said elbow lever pivotally connected to a link 32which in. turn is slidably secured to the under side of the work clampas shown at 33 The link is acted upon by a pulling s n" a" whichfunctions to hold the arm 29 a ainst the thrust rod 2? and also tomaintain the roll 2% in contact with the cam 21. The r or end of thework clamo carries a pin or post which extends into an opening in alever 36 pivoted to the frame at e? and adapted to have foreand-aftswinging movement thereby to give the work holder its fOlO-fll1 l"l1 tmovement. During the formation of the underlying stitches. however thislever is stationary and, 5 therefore the vibrating movement of the elbowlever 29, 31 will give the work clamp a transverse swinging movementabout the post as a pivot. lV hen the cam 21 operates to bring a highportion 22 thereof under the roll 2% then the elbow lever 29, 31 will bemoved into the position shown in Fig. 1 1: by the thrust rod 27 therebyto move the work holder to the left Fig. 2, and when a low portion ofsaic cam comes under the roll the spring will move the work h or to theright. thus giving the necessary jogging movement to form the underlyingstitches.

Provision is made for adjusting he long of the underlying stitches byadjusting it position of the stud 28. This stud occiipien a slot 128formed in the bed are and ca be moved longitudine 1 slot thereb to placethe thrust rod ther from the pivot 30. This stir in adjusted position bymeans screw 129. The thrust rod amplitude of movement but by sh" thrustrod nearer to or further fron 30, the amplitude of movement given to thellO elbow lever and thereby to the wok clamp can be varied, thusproducing 101 g 1 or shorter stitches Means are provided for actuating21 when the machine is set in ope!" then for rendering said caminoperative a the underlying stitches 1 hav bee" and while the overlyi'tches are This cam 21 is looselv nounted o cal stud 38 depending fromthe bed i. rash, Said stud also hat a sleeve 138 rotatively mountedthereon on which is forniez,

40, which meshes with is i a worm 39 on the shaft 8. This w 40 and theworm 39 are thus continuously rotated while the machine is in operation.

Means are provided for connecting sleeve 138 to the cam 21 at the.hepinn o; the stitching operation, thereby torotaic cam 21 to form theunderlying stitches,

for disrupting said driving connection, so that the cam 21 comes to restafter the underlying stitches 1 have been completed and while the sleevecontinues its rotative movement during the formation of the overlyingstitches.

The driving connection between the sleeve 138 and the cam 21, comprisesa ratchet l which is rigid with the worm and a pawl 12, whichco-operates with the ratchet and is pivotally mounted on the cam 21,said pawl being acted upon by a spring a3 which tends to hold it inoperative engagement with the ratchet. hlormally. said pawl is inengagement with the ratchet so that. as the sleeve 138 is rotatedclockwise Fig. 11 the cam 21 will be carried with it. Wher the cam hasmade one complete rotation thereby forming the underlying stitches 1,the pawl 42 is disengaged from the ratchet so as to render the cam 21inoperative. After this occurs the sleeve 133 continues its rotativemovement while the overlying stitches are being formed. This isaccomplished by a finger or arm 4.4 which is pivotally mounted on theframe at 4.5 and is acted upon by a spring 46 tending to move it fromthe full to the dotted line position Fig. 10.

lVhen the machine is at rest and before it is started saidpawl-disengaging arm 4 1 is held in its inoperative or full lineposition, but as soon as the machine is started in operation and the cam21 begins to turn said finger is brought into its operative or dottedline position, Figs. 10 and 11 so that when the cam :21 completes itsrotation the tail of the pawl will engage the finger and thereby becomedisengaged from the ratchet 4.1., as shown in dotted lines Fig. 11.

The arm 44: is held in its inoperative position by scans of a rod 17extending from an arm 48 that fast on a rock shaft 49 forming part ofthe starting and stopping mechanism. So far as the present invention isconcerned there is nothing new in this starting and stopping mechanismand it may be of any preferred type. That herein shown includes the rockshaft a9 and other suitable devices constructed so that when the rockshaft is turned anti-clockwise l the driving belt-'will be shifted fromthe loose pulley (not shown) to the fast pulley 131.

The arm 48 is shown having an extension 50 to which connected a link 51that leads to a starting treadle whereby when the treadle is depressedit will move the link 51 and extension 50 downwardly from the positionshown in l to that shown in Fig. 5 thereby turning the rock shaft 19 andshifting the belt onto the fast pulley Til- 1. This starts the machinein opeinuion. ll hen the treadle has been depressed to start the machinethe arm 50 will be loclted in its lowered position shown in 5 until thestitcl ing is completed at which time said arm is released and thestarting and stopping mechanism is then moved into the position shown inFig. 4 by means of a spring 52 thereby carrying the driving belt fromthe fast to the loose pulley.

The arm 50 carries a pawl 53 which is pivoted thereto at 54 and is actedupon by a spring 55 that normally holds it against a stop 56. When thearm 50 is pulled downwardly by the treadle in starting the machine thispawl engages a shoulder 57 (see Fig. 16) thereby locking the arm 50 inits depressed condition and maintaining the ma chine in operation. Atthe end of the stitcl1 ing operation the arm 50 is released thusallowing the machine to come to rest as will be presently described.

After the underlying stitches 1 have been formed as above described thenthe work holder is given a fore-andaft movement to form the overlyingstitches 2 and is also given a feeding movement to carry the overlyingstitches from one end to the other of the underlying stitches.

One feature of my invention relates to means for controlling the numberof the overlying stitches in such a way that said number may be variedeither proportionately to orindependently of the length of theunderlying stitches. Where the number of the overlying stitches variesproportionate ly to the length of the underlying stitche then theoverlying stitches will always have the same spaced relation regardlessof the length of the underl}. 'ing stitches while by varying the numberof the overlying stitches independently of the length of the underlyingstitches the spacing of the overlying stitches may be varied. I regardthis feature as of considerable importance because it pro vides formaking reinforcements or bars at the end of a buttonhole of differentlengths but all of a uniform appearance owing to the uniform spacing ofthe overlying stitches.

The fore-and-aft movement of the work holder is secured by anoscillating movement of the lever 36 to which the rear end of the workclamp is secured by means of the pin 35. This lever 36, which it will beremembered is pivoted to turn about a vertical 37, bears at its free endagainst an arm 58 extending from a. sleeve 59 that is loosely mounted onthe cross shaft 60 ans is capable of turning thereabout as well assliding longitudinally thereof. This arm 58 carries a roll 61 (see Fig.12) which is adapted to be actuated by a cam 62 that is rotatable abouta stud 63 and has rigid therewith a gear 64 meshing with and d iven by agear 65 faston the driving shaft 8.

The sleeve 59 is, as stated above, slidably mounted on the shaft 60 andduring the formation of the underlying stitches said sleeve ispositioned so that the roll 61 is out of engagement with the cam 62. Atthis time the arm 58 rests against and is positioned by a stop screw 132which is screvs t ireaded through the bed plate 3 and is provided with apointed end 133, th for) for the upper end of the the underlyingstitches h i then the sleeve 52 is shifted to lr'ii 61 into the path ofthe cam 6:3 and will, therefore, act on the arm 58.

When the sleeve is in posi ion to have the roll 61 acted on by the cam62 said roll is ield against the cam face by means of a spr ng 3 whichacts again?- rue lower end the pin and, therefore, serves to hold thelever 86 against the arm and also to hold the roll 61 against the faceof the cam 62. The joint operation of the cam and the spring 66 causesthe arm and lever 36 to be vibrated as the cam 62 rotates, s vibrationbeing transmitted to the clamps through the pin 35. The 64; have atwo-to-one relation so that at one p -nctmt ing thrust of the needle thework c moved forward and at. the next p thrust it is moved bacl work thenecessary o f form the overlying stitc i 3 2.

The lever 86 is slotted at its end, as shown at 6'7, and a stud 68 isadjustably carried in said slot and bears against the arm The arm 58always has th same a *ilitude movement but by adjusting the stud (38 upand down in the slot 67 theamplitude of movement given to tl e lever 36and work clamp can be varied thereby varying the length of the overlyingstitches 2.

l have statedv above that the slee arm 58 were retained in inoperativ pos with the roll 61 out of the path of the cam 62 while the underlyingstitches are l n e1 formed, but that as soon as said underlyi a stitchesare completed said sleeve 59 is shifted on the sha t to bring the roll61 into operative engagen'ient with the cam Th sleeve 59 is formed witha forked extension ('39, between the arms of which is received a lever'70 pivoted to the frame at 71 and acted on by a pulling spring ,'2 thatnormally tends to move it toward the right in 3. During the formation ofthe underlyiistitches said lever is retained in the full, l, position 3by engagement with a stop shoulder 73 formed on a resiliei which issecured at on end to the .7 shown at 7 The resiliency of this arm 7%:permits it to be moved downwardly at th proper time to withdraw theshoulder from engagement with the lever and when this occurs the spring72 swi. s the lever 70 to the right Fig. 3 thereby movin he sleeve 59 onthe rod or shaft 60 and ca ,nng the roll 61 into the path of the cam 62.This operation occurs just as the underlyingstitchforming cam 21 isrendered inoperative by the disengagement of the pawl l2 with theratchet 41, and is controlled by a cam member 76 which is rigid with thecam member 21 and rotates therewith, both cams being fixed on a sleeve238 which is loosely mounted on the stud 38 and extends through thesleeve 138; The cam member 76 has a cam projection 77' that is adaptedto engage the end of the resilient arm 74: at the proper time in thecycle of operations thereby to depress the same and withdraw the stopshoulder 73 from the lever 70. This cam projection is so positionedrelative to the pawl 12 that it will wipe over and depress the arm 7-1just before the pawl is disengaged from the ratchet 4:1 and, therefore,when the connected cams 21 and 76 come to rest after the'pawl 42 is thusdisengaged the projection 77 will be in substantially the position shownin Fig. The cam '76 and cam 21 remain stationary in this position whilethe cam 62 is operative in forming the overlying stitches 2 and untilthe machine is brought to rest at the end of the sewing operation atwhich time the finger 14-. is retracted from its engagement with thepawl 42 by the stop motion so that said pawl drops into engagement withthe ratchet 41 ready for operation when the machine is again started.During each cycle of operations the connected cams 21 and 76 make onecomplete rotation during the formation of the underlving stitches andthen are brought to rest during the formation of the overlying stitches.

will thus be observed that in my present machine there is one cam forgiving move ment to the work holder for forming the long underlyingstitches, and a separate cam for giving movement to the work holder forforming the shorter overlying stitches, and it will also be observedthat the latter cam is inoperative during the formation of theunderlying stitches and that when said stitches are completed the camforming them is rendered inoperative while the other cam isautomatically rendered operative to cause the formation of the overlyingstitches.

During the formation of the overlying stitches th work holder has a slowfeeding movement in the direction of the underlying stitches and thisfeeding movement is controlled by a feeding cam which is separate fromthe stitch-forming cams 21 and 62. Said feeding cam is inoperative whilethe underlying stitches 1 are being formed but becomes automaticallyoperative during the formation of the overlying stitches 2, This feedcam is indicated at 78 and is in the form of a spiral rib on a sleeve 79which is loosely mounted on a cross shaft or red 80. This sleeve 7 9 hasconnected thereto one end of a spiral spring 81, the other end of saidspring being anchored in a collar 82 fast on the rod 80.

The spiral cam rib 78 co-operates with a shoe 83 carried by a projection84 extending from the link 32 to give the desired feeding movement tothe work holder. Vl hile the underlying stitches 1 are being formed thespiral cam 78 is positioned so that it will permit a free movement ofthe work holder, the camim aelled movement of said work holder carryingthe shoe 83 away from the spiral cam 78, as shown in Fig. 1% and themovement induced by the spring moving said shoe in the oppositedirection. As the last underlying stitch 1 is formed and while the shoeis separated from the cam T8, as seen in Fig. 1d, the latter is turnedso as to bring the cam into engagement with the shoe, as shown in Fig.15 and thereafter the cam 78 is given a slow turning movement allowingthe shoe to follow down the cam under the influence of the spring 34 andproducing the feeding movement. This operation can perhaps be made moreclear by reference to Fig. 13, which shows the stitching operationgraphically. When the machine is started the first penetrating thrust ofthe needle is at the point a which represents the start of theunderlying stitching and the first transverse movement of the work clampdue to the first rise 22 of the cam 21 moves the work clamp so that thenext penetrating thrust of the needle is at the point 6. For the thirdpenetrating thrust a low portion 23 of the cam 21 comes under the roll2% so that the work clamp is shifted to bring the needle back to thefirst point again and this jogging movement continues until theunderlying stitches 1 have been completed. The last penetrating thrustof the needle in the formation of the underlying stitches is at thepoint 6 although for the sake of illustration this point is indicated atc in Fig. 13 because the stitches 1 of the group are shown slightlyseparated. At this time the roll 2st is on a high portion 22 of the camand the shoe 83 is in the position shown in Fig. 1% relative to the feedcam 78. When the underlying stitches have been completed then the sleeve79 is turned to bring the feed cam 78 into engagement with the shoe 83as shown in F 15 and thereafter the feed cam is turned slowly backwardlywhile the overlying stitches 2 are being formed so as to permit the workclamp to move slowly in the direction of the underlying stitches underthe influence of the spring 3 1. The stopping mechanism for the cam 21is so constructed that the cam comes to rest in the position shown inFig. 15 *ith the roll 24 on the low portion of the cam and, therefore,the rod 2'? does not interfere with the movement of the arm 29 duringthe feeding movement of the work clamp while the overlying stitches arebeing formed.

Vv hil-e the underlying stitches 1 are being formed the feed cam 78 isin the position shown in Fig. 3 and is held in this position by means ofa brake 85 and at this time the spring 81 is wound up so that it tendsto turn the sleeve 7 9 into the position shown in Fig.

15. The. brake 85 is in the form. of a brake shoe bearing against thesleeve 7 9 and it is carried by a stem 86 pivotally connected to an arm87 fast on a rock shaft 60. This rock shaft has another arm 89 fastthereon which is acted on by a spring 90, said spring pulling upwardlyon the arm 89 and thereby forcing the l rake shoe 85 against the drum79. The release the brake at the proper time is secured by a camprojection 91 carried by the cam member '1' 6, said cam projectionacting on roll 92 extending from the arm 89 and depressing said armthereby withdrawing the brake 05 from frictional engagement with thedrum 7 9. 1t vill be remembered that the cam 76 makes one rotationduring the formation of the underlying stitches and then comes to restat the time when the shift is made from the underlying to the overlyingstitches. The cam projection 91 is so positioned on the cam 78 that itengages the roll 92 and thus releases the brake just before theunderlying stitches are completed, that is, during the last penetratingthrust of the needle in forming the underlying stitches (this lastthrust being at the point 0 Fig. 13 as above described) so that thebraking action on the cam 78 is released when the needle is making itslast penetrating thrust in the formation of the underlying stitches. V]hen the braking action is thus re leased the wound spring 81 serves toturn the drum 7 9 from the position shown in Fig. 14 to that shown inFig. 15, thereby bringing the cam ribs 78 againstthe shoe 83, as shownin Fig. 15. The drum 79 is then given an intermittent rotative movementin a direction opposite to its spring-impelled movement, during whichthe shoe 83 follows down the cam 78 under the influence of the spring 3%and the work holder is given its feeding movement.

For thus giving a feeding movement to the cam the drum 79 is providedwith ratchet teeth 93 which co-operate with feed pawls 94 carried by apawl carrier 95. lhis pawl carrier is capable of moving transversely ofthe shaft 80 and is guided in this transverse movement by a block 96loosely mounted on the shaft 80, the latter having ways 97 by which thepawl carrier 95 is guided. The pawl carrier is acted on by springs 98which tend to move it in a direction to bring the pawls 94 intoengagement with the ratchet teeth 93 and said pawl carrier is normallyheld with the pawls disengaged from the ratchet teeth by means of a camprojection 99 on a sleeve 100 slidably mounted on the shaft 80 said camprojection being received in a central opening 101 formed in the pawlcarrier. The pawl carrier is given an oscillatory motion about theshaftcontinuously and for this purpose it is connected by a link 102with a swinging actuator 103, the latter being pivoted to the frame 3 at10d and having an opening 105 in which is received a ca 0. 106 fast onthe shaft 8. The actuator 105 is therefore continuous ly vibrated andsuch vibration is transmitted to the pawl carrier 95. So long as thepawls 94 are disengaged from the ratchet 93 the oscillating movement ofthe pawl carrier will not be communicated to the drum 79 and this is thecondition which exists during the formation of the underlyingstitches 1. After the underlying stitches have been completed and thebrake 85 has been released, as above described, to permit the drum 79 toturn into the position shown in Fig. 15, then the pawls 94L are broughtinto engagement with the ratchet 93 thereby giving a feeding movement tothe feed cam 7 8. This is accomplished through the action of the leverwhich shifts the sleeve 59 thereby to render the cam 62 operative.

The sleeve 100, which is slidably mounted on the shaft has a projection10'? extending therefrom which is engaged by the end of the lever 70when the latter is shifted into the position shown in Fig. 15 at the endof the formation of the underlying stitches. This movement withdraws thecam linger 99 from engagement with the pawl carrier and allows thelatter to be moved transversely in the ways 97 by the springs 98 therebyto bring the pawls 94L into engagement with the ratchet 93. This couplesthe sleeve 7 9 to the pawl carrier so that the sleeve will be ratchetedaround, thus controlling the feeding movement of the work holder. Duringthis pawl-impelled movement of the drum 7 9, the spring 81 will be woundup so that at the end of the stitching operation the spring 81 is in itswound condition, in which condition it is retained by he brake 85. Itwill be remembered that the brake 85 is released by the cam rib 91 whichis relatively short, and this release of the brake occurs just as thelong underlying stitches are completed and just before the cams 21 and 76 come to rest in the position shown in Fig. 3. When said cams thus cometo rest the cam rib 91 has passed out from under the roll 92 so that thebrake 85 is again applied and remains in action while the drum 79 isbeing stepped forward by the pawl and ratchet feed mechanism. Said brakethus acts to prevent retrograde movement of the drum between eachforward step.

It will be observed from the fore oing that, assuming that the sleeve 9and cam 78 are fed at a given rate of speed, the number of overlyingstitches 2, will depend upon the length of the underlying stitches. Orstated in another way the number of the overlying stitches will dependupon the position which the shoe 83 assumes when the underlying stitchesare completed, that is, the position which the shoe 83 occupies when theneedle has made its penetrating thrust at the point a Fig. 13 for thenext underlying stitch.

It will be remembered that when the undcrlying stitches are completedwith the needle at the point a Fig. 13, and the shoe 83 in a positionshown in Fig. 14, the sleeve 7 9 is released and is turned by the springto bring the spiral cam 78 against the shoe 83. The extent to which thesleeve must be turned in order to bring this about depends of courseupon the position of the shoe at the end of the underlying stitches, andthis in turn depends upon the length of the stitches. After the partshave assumed the position shown in Fig. 15, then the cam is fed backinto the aosition shown in Fig. 3, as the overlying stitches are formedand the number of such stitches depends on how far the cam 7 8 has to beturned to bring it from the position shown in Fig. 15 to that shown inFig. 3.

Assuming therefore, that there is no change in the rate of feed of thesleeve 79, the number of overlying stitches Will vary proportionate lyto the length of the underlying stitches, and any adjustn'icnt of thelength of the underlying stitches will automatically elfect anadjustment of the number of overlying stitches.

Moreover, the shoe 83 constitutes a stop to gauge the setting of thefeed cam 78 for the overlying stitches, and as the position of the shoeis determined by the length of the underlying stitches, thisconstruction provides means whereby the feed for the overlying stitchesis automatically positioned. in accordance with the length of theunderlying stitches.

The character of the spacing of the overlying stitches depends upon thecharacter of the feed cam 78. If this said cam is one of uniform pitch,then the overlying stitches will be evenly spaced, but by making thefeed cam with the irregular pitch the overlying stitches may be formedin bunches with a plu rality of stitches closely grouped together pointsalong the length of the underlying stitches.

It is within my invention to provide a cam 78 of any contour dependingon the character of the spacing required in the overlying stitches.

I have also provided means whereby the spacing of the overlying stitchescan be varied for any length of the underlying stitches. In other words,I have provi H means whereby for any given length of derlying stitch theoverlying stitches may be formed closer to or further from. each or;:

This is herein accomplished by provid n an adjustable connection betweenthe l 102 which operates the pawl carrier and the osci latory frame 103.Such adjustable connection is shown as comprising slot 17 in the framewhich receives a clamping screw 173 carried by the link 102. The frame103 has a. fixed amplitude of movement, and by adjusting the clampingscrew 173 further from the center 104, the amplitude of movement of thepawl carrier will be sod. thus giving a more rapid rate of feed, whileby adjusting the clamp screws 173 toward the upper end of the slot 172,the. amplitude of movement of the pawl carrier will be decreased, thusgiving a slower rate of feed. The increased rate of feed results informing the overlying stitches further apart, while the slower rate offeed results in form: ing the overlying stitches nearer together.

When the overlying stitches a completed, the machine is brought to rest,and the stopping of the machine is controlled by the cam 78 through theoperation of a lever 108, which is pivoted to the frame at 109 and actedon by a pulling spring 110 tending to move it to the right Fig. 8.

It has been heretofore stated that when the machine is started bydepressing of the arm 50, the latch 53 operates to hold the armdepressed. At the time that the shift is made from the production of theunc erlying stitches to the production of the overlying stitches thelever 108 is moved forward so as to engage behind the arm 50 and holdthe latter, the latch 53 at this time becoming he engaged from theshoulder The lever 108, is therefore, at this time substituted for thepawl 53 as a means for holding the arm 50 depressed. This substitutiontakes place as follows:

The arm 108 is connected to the sleeve 100 by means of a link 111 which,however, has a lostmotion connection with said sleeve. llhen the sleeve100 is given its mov the right to render the pawl actuator 95 operative,the lever 108 is given a movement sullicient to move the extension 112thereon against the pawl 58, thereby kn citing said pawl from theshoulder 57. At this time, however, said extension passes in behind theend of the arm 50, and betwee the latter and the shaft 60, so that saidlever acts to hold the arm from rising as shown in Fig. 18. This thecondition which obtains during the formation of the overlying stitches.l t hen the overlying stitches are completed, the lever 108 is withdrawnfrom engagement with the arm 50, this end being accomplished by theportion 118 of the cam '28 engaging a projection on the lever 108. Thewithdrawing of the lever 108 from engagement with the arm 50 allows thesprings 52 to restore the arm 50 to the position shown in Fig. i and toturn the rock shaft 419 thereby to carry the driving belt from the tothe loose pulley. The. cam 78, therefore, operates not only afeed-controlling cam but also as a means to determine the point at whichthe machine to be stopped.

As the arm 50 swings upwardly from the po: tion shown in Fig. 5 to thatshown in Fig. 1. the end surface 11% of arm has a camming action againstthe lever 108, there by returning it to the QOSiJlOl'l shown in Fi 8 andthis movement operates through the link 111 to movethe sleeve 100 to theleft, thereby carrying the projection 99 against ent to the pawlactuator 95 and withdrawing the latter out of operative engagement withthe ratch t. At this time, the brake 85 is applied so as to lock thedrum 79 in the position shown in Fig. 3 with the spring 81 wound.

In order to restore the sleeve 59 and lever to the position shown inFig. 8 t the time that the machine is stopped, I have provided. saidsleeve with a roll or projection 150, and hav also provided the arm 50with a cam surface 152 adapted to engage said roll when the arm swingsfrom the position shown in Fig. 5, to that shown in F ig. l. Thisengagement forces the sleeve 59 to the left, thus withdrawing the rolls61 from the cam 62. This cam surface 152 is shown as formed on the endof a plate 151, which is secured to the arm 50 by means or" screws 153extending through slots 154: in the plate. This provides means foradjusting the plate to enable the cam152 to function properly.

in Fig. 18, l have shown a reinforcement wherein all of the underlyingstitches are of the same length. It is not essential, however that thisshould be the case as the underlying stitches may be of differentlengths, this depending upon the nature of the cam 21. Y

In Fig. 19 l have shown a TGlDfOl'CQll'lGD'l in which the first of theunderlying stitches is short stitch and the others are long stitches. Inthis construction the needle makes the first penetrating thrust at a andthen the work clamps are moved slightly, so that the next penetratingthrust is at 6 thus producing a short stitch. The next penetratingthrust is at (4 again, and for the fourth penetrating thrust thework-holder is given greater movement to produce the long stitch. Theadvantage of making the first underlying stitch short one is that it iseasier to anchor the thread for the first stitch in the work. Where thefirst stitch is a long stitch, it is necessary to draw of? a consideable length of thread to form the stitch, and when the machine isrunning rapidly, there is a possibility that unless the end of thethread is firmly held, it will be pulled out from the work. Thisliability is reduced by making the first underlying stitch a shortstitch.

The production of the short stitch for the first underlying stitch maybe accomplished by making the cam 21 with the first raised portion 22 ofless height than the other raised port-ions, so that during the firststitch the work-holder will have a relativel small movement.

I claim:

ma hine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism including averticall -reciproeating needle operating in a fir-zed )ath, ofwork-holding means means to vibrate the work-holding means in twodifferent directions, thereby first to form a group of underlyingstitches and then to form a group of overlying stitches, and means to,vary the number of he overlying stitches t without changing the lengthof the underlying stitches.

2. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanismincluding a vertically-reciprocating needle operating in a fixed path,of work-holding means, means to vib re the work-holding means in twodifferent directions, thereby first to form a group of underlyingstitches and then to form a group of overlying stitc means vary thelength of the underlying stitches, and means to vary proportionately thenumber of the overlying stitches.

3. In a sewing machine, the combi with stitch-forming mechanism includverticallyreciproc-ating needle operating in a fixed path, ofwork-holding means, means to vibrate the work-holding means in twodifferent directions, thereby first to form r 'roup of underlyingstitches and then to form a group of overlying stitches, and means forsecuring a uniform spacing of the overlying stitches regardless of thelength of the underlying stitches.

4-. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanismincluding a verticall -reciproeating needle operating in a fixed path,of worlchcldrug means, means to Vibrate the work-holding means in twodifferent directions, thereby first to form a group of underlyingstitches and then to form a group of overlying stitches, and means tovary the spacing of the overlying stitches for any given length ofunderlying stitches.

5. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanisu'iincluding a ertically-reciprocating needle operating in a fixed p ath,of work-holding means, means to vibrate the work-holding means in twodifferent directions, thereby to formagroup of underlying stitches andthen to ii'orm a group of overlying stitches, and means to ad justsimultaneously the length of the underlying stitches and the number ofthe overly ing stitches.

6. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-"forming mechanismincluding a vertically-reciprocating needle operating in fixed path, ofwork-holding means, means to vibrate the work-holding means in twodifferent directions, thereby first to form a group of underlyingstitches and then to form a {group of overlying stitches, means to bringthe machine to rest after the formation of a predetermined number ofstitches of the second group, and means to vary said predeterminednumber.

7. In. a sewing machine, he combination with stitch-forming mechanismincluding a vertically-reciproeating needle operating in a fixed path,of work-holding means, means to vibrate the work-holding means in twodifferent direct-ions, thereby first to form a group of underlyingstitches and then to form a group of overlying stitches, means to bringthe machine to rest after the formation of a predetermined number ofstitches of the second group, and means to vary both the predeterminednumber of stitches in the sec ond group and the length of said stitches.

8. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanismconstructed to .form a group of stitches side by side, and a secondgroup of stitches which extend transversely to the stitches of the firstgroup, said mechanism including a vertically-reciprocating needle whichoperates in a fixed path, of means to vary the spacing of the stitchesof the second group.

9. In a sewing machine, the combination with. stitch-forming mechanismconstructed to form a. group of stitches side by side, and a secondgroup of stitches which extend transversely to the stitches of the firstgroup, said mechanism including a vertically-reciprocating needle whichoperates in a fixed path, of means to vary both the spacing and thelength of the stitches of the second group.

10. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanismconstructed to form a group of stitches side by side, and a second groupof stitches which extend transversely to the stitches of the firstgroup, said mechanism including a vertically-reciprocating needle whichoperates in a fixed path, of means to vary both the spacing and thenumber of the stitches of the second group.

11.. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism,of workholding means, a cam device for giving the work-holding means areciprocatory movement in one direction, a second cam device for givingthe work-holding means a reciprocatory movement in another direction,means to operate the first-named cam device to give the. work-holdingmeans a predetevmined number of reciprocations and then bring saidlast-named cam device to rest, and automatic means to render the secondcam device operative when the first-named came device is brought torest.

12. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism,of workholding means, means to reciprocate the work-holding means in onedirection, thereby to form a group of stitches side by side, other meansto reciprocate the work-holding means in a direction at right angles tothe firstnamed direct-ion thereby to form a group of stitches whichcross the first-named stitches, means separate from the work-holderreciprocating means to give the worleholder a feeding movement in thedirection of the first-named stitches during the formation of the crossstitches, and means controlled by the feeding means to bring the machineto rest.

13. In a sewing machine, the combination eeaeee with a work-clamp, ofstitch-forming mechanism, a cam for giving the work-clamp areciprocating movement in one directian to form underlying stitches, asecond cam for giving the. work'clamp a reciprocating movement inanother direction to form overlying stitches, and a feed cam independentfrom the first cam to give the work-holder a feed ing movement in thedirection of the underlying stitches during the formation of theoverlying stitches.

14. In a sewing machine the combination with a work-clamp, ofstitch-forming mechanism, a cam for giving the worlcclampa reciprocatingmovement in one direction to form underlying stitches, a second cam forgiving the work-clamp a reciprocating movement in another direction toform overlying stitches, means to render the first cam inoperative andthe second cam operative when the underlying stitches are completed, afeed cam which is idle while the underlying stitches are being formed,and means to render said feed cam operative during the formation of theoverlying stitches.

15. In a sewing machine, the combination with a work-clamp, ofstitch-forming mechanism, a cam for giving the work-clamp areciprocating movement in one direction to form underlying stitches, asecond cam for giving the work-clamp a reciprocating movement in anotherdirection to form overlying stitches, a feed cam for controlling thefeeding movement of the work-clamp during the formation of the overlyingstitches, a constantly moving actuator for operating the feed cam, saidfeed cam being disconnected from the actuator during the formation ofthe underlying stitches, and means to operatively connect the feed camto the actuator when the underlying stitches are completed.

16. In a sewing machine, the combination with a work-clamp, ofstitch-forming mechanism, a cam for giving the work-clamp areciprocating movement in one direction to form underlying stitches,means to operate said cam, a second cam for giving the work- 615111 areciprocating movement in another direction to form overlying stitches,means to disconnect the first named cam from its driving mechanism andto render the second cam operative at the completion of the underlyingstitches, and a feed cam controlling the feeding movement of thework-clamp during the formation of the overlying stitches.

17. In a sewing machine, the combination with a work-clamp, ofstitch-forming mechanism, a cam for giving the work-clamp areciprocating movement in one direction to form underlying stitches, asecond cam. for giving the Work-cla1np a reciprocating movement inanother direction to form. overlying stitches, a feed cam controllingthe feeding movement of the work-clamp during the formation of theoverlying stitches, said second cam and feed cam both being inoperativeduring the formation of the underlying stitches, and means to rendersaid cams operative at the completion of the underlying stitches.

18. In a sewing machine, the combination with a work-clamp, ofstitclrforming mechanism, a cam for giving the work-clamp areciprocating movement in one direction to form underlying stitches, asecond cam. for giving the work-clamp a reciprocating movement inanother direction to form overlying stitches, a feed cam controlling thefeeding movement of the work-clamp during the formation of the overlyingstitches, said second cam and feed cam both being inoperative during theformation of the underlying stitches, and means to render said secondcam and feed cam operative, and the first named cam inoperative at thecompletion of the underlying stitches.

19. In a sewing machine, the combination with a work-clamp, ofstitch-forming1nechanism, a cam for giving the work-clamp areciprocating movement in one direction to form underlying stitches, asecond cam for giving the work-clamp a reciprocating movement in anotherdirection to form overlying stitches, a feed cam independent from thefirst-named cam to control the feeding movement of the work-clamp duringthe formation of the overlying stitches, and means controlled by saidfeed cam to bring the machine to rest at the completion of the overlyingstitches.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification.

JOHN KIEWICZ.

